The Dempster Highway
Government of Yukon Photo by J Bergeron

Dempster Highway

When it comes to the Dempster, "wild" is almost an understatement. Because you're travelling above treeline, your chances for spotting wildlife are excellent – you may even find yourself waiting while a herd of barren ground caribou crosses the road. And on a cloudy day, the dramatic play of light and shadow on the rolling hills will send you scrambling for your camera.

Most of the land along the Dempster escaped glaciation during the last ice age. Weathered by wind and water , the mountains and hills are gently rounded. Stunted trees at the edge of the treeline may be hundreds of years old and flowers can take decades to bloom. But the severity of the Arctic winter is balanced by the abundance of summer. Thousands of migratory birds come to nest in the tundra, including trumpeter swans, sandhill cranes and a wide variety of ducks and geese. The Arctic landscape can express both barrenness and richness.

The people who live in this environment are no less impressive than the land itself. The Gwichin, Dene and Inuit First Nations peoples call this formidable land home. In Fort McPherson, Arctic Red River and Inuvik, you can catch a glimpse of what their lives are like and see how ancient and strong the traditions of these people must be to survive in the far North.

Tombstone Mountains
Government of Yukon Photo by K Raach

A Dempster traveller's adventure begins with a drive to the Tombstone Range of the Ogilvie Mountains. An igneous anomaly, the Tombstones look more like sculptures than natural formations. Although the mountains are visible from the highway, it's worth taking a day or two to hike into Tombstone Valley . Granite faces, dramatic pinnacles, lacy aretes and cirques, monoliths and the clear blue of Talus Lake in a cup of rock make for incredible hiking vistas.

Further north, the highway runs along the Blackstone River. The Blackstone's waters are known for Arctic char and grayling. Char is a delicacy, considered by many to be better than salmon. Take the time to get out of your vehicle and scan your surroundings - look for movement on the hillsides and maybe you'll spot a grizzly bear , or barren ground or woodland caribou. Raptors you may see include Golden Eagles , gyrfalcons and short-eared owls.